There are plenty of reasons why you may want to build a dog ramp for your pooch.
Maybe you have a senior dog who has a tough time getting around. Or perhaps your dog is in a canine wheelchair, or is otherwise disabled and can’t navigate steps easily.
Whatever the reason, ramps are a great mobility solution for your four-legged buddy.
We’re highlighting a few of the best DIY options around. And if none of these are a perfect fit, you can always purchase a dog ramp. While some are quite fancy and on the expensive side, others are quite affordable.
DIY Dog Ramp #1: This Old House
This Old House offers a fairly straightforward design for building your own DIY dog ramp. This design relies on a wood structure and a carpeted top.
Skill Level: Advanced
Materials: Wood / Plywood / Box Hinge Hardware / Non Slip Rug
Tools Needed: Jigsaw / Clamps / Drill
DIY Dog Ramp #2: Sweet & Simple From Instructables
This DIY dog ramp from Instructables is as simple and easy as it gets (and cheap too)! This ramp doesn’t require sawing, drilling, or any woodshop skill whatsoever. It’s just a matter of purchasing some cheap wire shelves, an outdoor carpet, and a little bit of MacGyver-ing magic.
Skill Level: Easy
Materials: Wire Shelving from Home Depot (+Rubber Ends) / Zip Ties / Outdoor Carpet
Tools Needed: Awe
DIY Dog Ramp #3: Fox & Brie
Here’s another fairly simple DIY dog ramp from Fox & Brie. This was created for less than $40, and it looks fantastic! This is a great project for someone who has a few power tools lying around but isn’t a pro.
Skill Level: Medium
Materials: Wood / Outdoor Carpeting / Waterproof Paint
Tools Needed: Outdoor Carpet Glue / Power Screwdriver / Power Saw / Tape Measure / Paint Brush
DIY Dog Ramp #4: Indoor Dog Ramp For Furniture
This dog ramp DIY project comes from Irresistible Pets. This design is specifically for indoor use, and is intended to help a dog get up onto a higher surface like a bed or couch.
Skill Level: Medium / Advanced
Materials: Wood / Plywood / Carpet
Tools Needed: Circular Saw / Power Drill / Sand Paper / Tape Measure / Carpet Tape
Dog Ramp #5: My Repurposed Life
We’ve got another great set of dog ramp instructions from My Repurposed Life! This one is another great project for folks who are semi-handy, but not power tool pros.
Skill Level: Medium
Materials: Old Cabinet Door / Plywood / Metal Hinge / Scrap Carpet
Tools Needed: Box Cutter / Scissors / Drill / Screw Driver / Staple Gun
Here’s a little video of it in action with Gail’s dog Louie!
Other DIY Dog Ramp Options
In addition to the tutorials mentioned above, there are some great dog ramp DIY videos on YouTube worth checking out as well.
This dog ramp from Make Something is awesome because it can double as storage space! However, it will definitely need to be made by someone with some experience using heavy woodwork machinery.
If you’re looking for an affordable DIY dog pool ramp, definitely check out this video from Lee Rickard – he was able to make his own just by using a pool noodle float and an industrial kitchen mat. Doesn’t get much easier than that! However, if you’d rather buy one, we review some of our top picks for the best dog pool and boat ramps here!
Do you have any other great doggie DIY videos you want to share? Put them in the comments so others can check them out!
Interested in more DIY dog projects? Try our guides to:
- DIY Dog Gates
- DIY Dog Leashes
Cost: $
Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 1/2 Day
- 3/4” plywood 15-3/4” x 47-3/4”
- From (1) 1x3 x 8' - cut (1) @ 37” and (1) @ 49-1/4” for the long sides of base and platform
- From (1) 1x3 x 8' - cut (1) @ 37” and (1) @ 49-1/4” for the long sides of base and platform
- From (1) 1x3 x 8' - cut (3) @ 15-3/4" for the short sides of platform and inset piece, (2) @ 14” short sides of base, (1) @ 15-1/2" (ripped to 3/4” x 3/4” for legs)
- (1) 3/4” dowel rod @ 14” long
Fasten the two shorter side pieces (15-3/4-inches) onto the ends of the plywood with 2-inch nails (Image 1). Apply glue on all contact points before nailing (Image 2). Set the pieces flush with the top of the plywood. Nail the long sides (49-1/4 inches) onto the plywood and short sides, making sure the ends are flush and that you nail into the 1x3 ends as well as the plywood (Images 3 and 4).
The inset piece goes on the underside of the platform and will hold the hinges that connect the base to the platform. Nail the inset piece flat (the remaining 1x3 x 15-3/4-inch board) inside the bottom of the box and against one end using 1-1/4-inch nails (since it's only 1/2 inch thick) (Images 1 and 2). Use 2-inch nails through the 1x3 into the side pieces.
Nail the four base pieces together the same way as the platform but without the plywood on top. Let the long sides (37-inch pieces) run past the short sides (14-inch pieces) on each end. Sand all pieces with a sander.
Rip the 15 1/2-inch in two so you have two 3/4 x 3/4 x 15 1/2-inch pieces. Set the dowel rod onto the end of the leg, lining it up with the edge. Trace a half-circle (the curve of the dowel) onto the leg. Repeat with the other three ends of the two legs. Use a sander to round over the ends to the curved mark. Drill a 3/16-inch hole in the center of each of the four radiused ends (Images 1 and 2).
Turn the platform upside down and place the tape measure inside the box butting up against the side without the inset piece; make a mark at 22 1/2 inches in from the edge without the flat 1x3 inset piece. Place a thin piece of cardboard or folded paper underneath the leg to give a little clearance. Screw the legs in at these points, but just loosely for now. You will need them loose for step 9. Also, do not attach the dowel at this point.
On the base frame, measure down 1 inch from the top and use a straight edge or level to draw a line 2 feet long at that mark (Image 1). With the tape measure hooked on the end, measure along the line and make marks at 2 inches, 6 inches, 10 inches and 14 inches. Repeat on the opposite side.
Drill a hole using a 3/4-inch paddle bit in the first mark (Image 1). Stop when the point of the bit comes through the other side but don’t drill all the way through. Put a piece of tape on the bit to mark the depth of that cut so the other holes will be consistent (Image 2). Continue with the rest of the holes, only drilling until the point of the bit pokes through the other side (Image 3). When all four holes are done, flip the base over and finish drilling out the holes from the other side (Images 4 and 5). This method prevents the wood from blowing out and splitting.
Lay the platform upside down and place the base inside of it with the holes you just drilled facing down. Line the side without the holes up against the edge of the inset piece. Lay the hinges on top of the inset piece and up against the base; use a pencil to mark holes in the hinges. Pick up the base and screw the hinges into the inset piece. Then lay the base back in place and finish installing the other side of the hinges.
It's best to have a helper for this step. Turn the ramp right-side up, and have your helper hold up the platform with the base remaining flat on the work table. Swing the legs outside of the platform box and line them up with the bottom of each of the holes. (This is why you didn't tighten the legs all the way.) Mark the leg position against each hole (each one will be at a different angle) (Images 1 and 2). This will give you the line to cut with the jigsaw. The last notch can be a straight cut, so you can mark this with a speed square (Images 3 and 4).
Use a jigsaw to cut outside your lines into the bottom of the drilled holes (Image 1). It’s better to be too large than not large enough. When all the notches are cut, sand the jigsaw marks smooth with coarse-grit sandpaper (Image 2), and then use a sander on the whole base piece to get it ready for painting (Image 3).
Screw the dowel in between the two legs. If it helps, use a clamp to hold up the legs while you insert the dowel. You can tighten the legs on the platform or remove it for painting.
We chose to prime and paint our dog ramp but it could be stained as well. We removed the hinges to make it easier to paint, but it’s not necessary. If painting instead of staining, apply a coat of primer and allow it to dry. Fill nail holes with putty, then sand smooth once it's dry. Then apply a coat of paint, and allow it to fully dry. If staining, fill the nail holes with putty that matches the stain color after the stain has dried.
If you took the platform off the base for painting, you can add the carpet while it's still separated, but it’s okay to add the carpet if the ramp is fully assembled. Lay the carpet face down, and then lay the platform face down on top of the carpet. Trace a line around the platform to get the correct size (Image 1). Take the platform off the carpet, and use a utility knife to cut the carpet (Image 2). Apply spray adhesive on the bottom of the carpet and on the top of the platform (Image 3). Let the adhesive set for a few minutes, then lay some scrap sticks perpendicular so you can place the carpet a section at a time (Image 4). Lay the carpet onto the platform, and press down to hold it in place (Image 5). Reassemble the ramp, and test it to make sure everything works.
To make your ramp more portable, attach a handle to the side of the platform.