Whats the difference between chuck taylor and chuck 70

Don’t take my word for it – listen to the experts – in the words of Converse themselves,  the revamped Chuck 70 is “The best ever, with tougher canvas and an extra layer of comfort.” I’m not one to disagree with a company’s stance on their own products – obviously, they know best – but that will not stop me from figuring out how and why they’re making this claim.

Starting with the history of the company, the original Non-Skid shoe, the now-infamous involvement of one Mr. Charles “Chuck” Taylor, and last but not least, the entire reason for this article and why you are still reading, the difference between the Chuck Taylor 70 and the All Star.

The Beginning

In order to fully appreciate the differences between the Chuck Taylor 70 and the All Star, a little history is needed. In 1908 in Malden, Massachusetts, Marquis Mills Converse founded The Converse Rubber Shoe Company, focused on making and manufacturing rubber galoshes and other waterproof wear 50 years earlier, Charles Goodyear had received his patent to vulcanize rubber.

This new technology, paired with the formations of professional sports teams all over the country, created both the resources and demand needed to manufacture a new kind of sports shoe. In 1917 Converse wanted to venture into the world of basketball and so they set out to create the company’s first performance athletic shoe.

Thus, the Non-Skids were born. Named for its grippy sole, this shoe featured a “two-piece quarter instead of the single-piece back, which permits shaping the back seam, thus obtaining a perfect fit around the ankles” and “exclusive foot-form last, which gives ample toe room, a snug fit over the instep, and proper support.” The shoe came in leather and canvas variants, mostly in shades of brown.   

Four years later, American semi-professional basketball player Charles “Chuck” Taylor joined the company as a salesman. During his first year at the company, Taylor introduced improvements to the shoe’s design, enhancing both flexibility and ankle support.

More importantly, Taylor understood the value of good marketing and branding, opting to incorporate an All Star logo on a circular patch above the ankle. In 1922, Taylor’s signature was added to the ankle patch, officially creating the Chuck Taylor All Stars, technically the first athlete-endorsed signature sneaker. They even became the official shoe of the Olympics from 1936 to 1968.

1. Converse All Star

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They’re versatile, classic and entirely yours to wear any way you want, anywhere you want, anytime you want. Available in a range of colors and sizes, these kicks are the ultimate casual shoe.

By the 60s, Converse controlled a vast majority of the basketball footwear market, with almost 90% of professional and collegiate basketball players wearing All Stars, but unfortunately, in the 70s the company began to struggle financially, due to increased competition and outdated technology. Athletes switched to shoes with leather uppers and harder rubber soles for increased support with Adidas and Nike taking over the market. Converse fell out of favor with the sports set but became a symbol of anti-establishment within the music industry.

In the 90s the All Star was a favorite among artists and musicians. By the shoe’s 80th anniversary, Converse had sold more than 600 million pairs and in 2003, Nike purchased Converse for an estimated $305 million.

In the fashion space, the All Star flourished, earning consistent street-cred with multiple collaborations, including, but not limited to, JW Anderson, Maison Margiela, and with Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garcons PLAY line. Perhaps one of the more recent and popular colaborations with the most lucrative resale value is when Virgil Ablosh included the Chuck Taylor in “The Ten” sneaker collection with Nike (of which I own and love dearly. I can’t prove it, but I’m wearing them as I type this).

Differences Between the Chuck 70 and All Star

So, what are the differences between the All Star and the Chuck 70? To put it simply, the Chuck 70 has:

• Thicker canvas
• Real leather patch
• Smaller toecap
• Thicker laces
• Higher foxing
• Glossier, tinted sole
• Extra stitching on midfoot

The Chuck 70 is a little heavier for several reasons, the first being that the canvas is thicker and more structured. During their days on the basketball court, the sport’s aggressive lateral action caused shoes to blow out, but the 12 oz weave seen on the Chuck 70 allowed these shoes to take more of a beating.

When Converse made the shift to a lifestyle sneaker, the All Star used a lighter canvas. To further strengthen the toe, the All Star has an extra layer of canvas stitched inside and an additional plastic heel cap built-in for stability. The thick canvas on the Chuck 70 means it has no need for additional structures, allowing for a more dynamic fit. 

2. Converse Chuck 70

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More cushioning, tougher canvas, same versatility. The Chuck 70 High Top is built off of the original 1970s design, with premium materials and an extraordinary attention to detail. 

The next obvious difference comes courtesy of the Chuck 70’s midsole finish. A layer of varnish has been applied to the midsole and toe cap in order to give the rubber an off-white sheen that subtly screams quality. Not only is it shiny, but the siding of the Chuck 70 is a full 5 mm higher to provide extra stability (on and off the basketball court). The pinstripe around the foxing tape is a separate piece of piping seared onto the midsole, as opposed to an inset stripe. The term “foxing” refers to the way the sole extends up and onto the upper, providing more lateral stability. 

On the Chuck 70, the leather heel patch is real and three-dimensional, unlike the screen-printed patch on the All Stars.  Also, Converse has attached their OG license plate to the heel and the nickel-plated eyelets and thicker cotton laces keep the shoe looking modern while having a vintage feel. Contrast stitching around the tongue and a nylon-webbing heel strip provide the finishing touches on the Chuck 70.

These differences may or may not matter to you as you decide which new pair to add to your collection. If they don’t, then stick with the All Star. But if you need more support and comfort in your shoes, go with the re-imagined Chuck 70.

With these you’ll be able to skip down the street through puddles (as I know you like to do) as well as jump into your favorite neighborhood pick-up game (that’s ‘basketball’ in layman’s terms) or just be able to walk around the city all day in comfort with the extra cushy foam insole that features built-up arch support (which becomes increasingly more important as we continue to age, and well worth the $20-30 price difference in this writer’s humble opinion).

Sara Fender is a freelance writer and wardrobe stylist. On the rare occasion she is not working, you can find her obsessing over her cat Linus, her sneaker collection, and eating tacos. Fancy ones, of course.

Sara Fender is a freelance writer and wardrobe stylist. On the rare occasion she is not working, you can find her obsessing over her cat Linus, her sneaker collection, and eating tacos. Fancy ones, of course.

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