2011 jeep grand cherokee drivers side blend door actuator

Update - I finally completed this repair. Total time about 3.5 hours over two afternoons as time permitted. Here are some learnings I thought I'd share to add more details to those who want to take this on. IT CAN BE DONE!

1.) The video I cited two replies earlier explains removing the lower duct at 6:15 - I broke the plastic rivet before learning it could have been removed safely an reused with the T-20 star. I was able to find a replacement at O'Reilly's ($3 for 6 pieces)

2.) The key detail in this thread (MANY THANKS 96scout!!) I learned that you could remove the upper duct, which is a 2 piece clamshell. What wasn't clear is how it came out or what it connects to. Looking under the seat as in the video, the 2 part clamshell faces front and rear of the car and slips over ducting toward center console. if you work it with a little force, the clamshell will split open; remove what looks like the smaller half (facing forward) and it will come loose and slide down, the you can remove the other half - facing rear - which is larger at the bottom but actually is a smaller piece overall. THIS IS THE KEY TO MAKING THIS REPAIR RELATIVELY EASY

3.) I loosened the 4 screws for the lower dash trim in anticipation of possibly removing all the lower dash, but found that unnecessary after the fact.

4.) Once you remove the upper duct you can use a standard 1/4 drive socket with 20 star bit with reasonable access. I did, however, find a good small ratchet with short T-20 star and thumbwheel (that gives a little more room) at Lowe's for $10 - shown here on Amazon for $16. https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-10-Piece-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B00KITHZMO

5.) The connector to the actuator has a red plastic locking tab - it slides out with a small screwdriver twisted between the two tabs. Once it is out, you can easily slide the connector out.

6.) Like other posts I read, I could not get the upper screw in the actuator to re-seat properly. It appears the lower screw post has a hole for the screw but the upper one does not, so the screw originally drove into the side of the post. When re-inserting the screw I was off angle slightly and stripped the partial plastic threads on the side of post. I removed everything to reexamine, and even tried using a nail to see if there was a hole in the post I could re-open, but it is definitely not there unless I completely crushed it closed

7.) When you reinstall the upper ducts, I found that inserting them in the SAME order they came out (front-larger overall but smaller near floor, the rear piece worked best. The upper portion is a slip fit OVER the remaining ducting in the dash. Once both are roughly in place you can close the halves of the clamshell together.

8.) The gear was what broke in mine (a piece fell out when I removed the felt trim underneath, but I decided to replace both the gear and the actuator. (I kept the original actuator just case the other side fails.) I was able to seat the new gear and actuator without much trouble, and the temperature is close but I still need to calibrate by disconnecting the battery as described in the video.

9.) Some forums claim the replacement gear is $2-$3. Clearly this is no longer the case. I searched extensively and the cheapest I could find it was about $10 with shipping. Bought both the gear and actuator on Amazon Prime.

Gear - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TO1QT0G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Actuator - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NNG60U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am a big guy (6'2" 270) with meaty arms and I was able to get my arms in there (though very tight) and get everything re-assembled with no shortcuts, no cutting screws or bits, and no special tools. The key is removing the upper ducts - take your time, use a little force (but don't gorilla it) and it will come out and you will have room.

Thanks again 96scout - his instructions and the YouTube link above to the video by Pat saved me $1300! Total cost spent --> $10.50 (gear) + 32.90 (actuator) +$10.75 (small ratchet) +$2.68 (replacement rivets) = $56.83. Could have been only the $10.50 for the gear had I figured out a few things beforehand, but I am happy with the savings.

I hope this helps - there is no reason to get overcharged by the dealer. YOU CAN DO IT!